Bon Appétit Management Company

• Tweet

Grounded in Viet foundations of flexitarian eating and no-waste cooking, Ever-Green Vietnamese is Andrea Nguyen’s latest cookbook that explores innovative twists on classic dishes that are both delicious and exciting (or hấp dẫn in Vietnamese)!  

Dive into the savory side with Spicy Oyster Mushroom and Lemongrass Stir-Fry or Tofu-Mushroom Curry, both flavorful main dishes packed with vibrant vegetables. Or skip right to dessert with Spice-Citrus Marble Cake inspired by warming spices found in pho. Enjoy these inventive recipes (and many more!) in Ever-Green Vietnamese.

SPICY OYSTER MUSHROOM AND LEMONGRASS STIR-FRY
Nấm Bào Ngư Xào Sả Ớt 

“Delicate oyster mushrooms look as though they lack verve, but in this stir-fry they absorb the spicy seasonings and soften to a chewy-firm texture. The elements stand in balance with snap peas or snow peas (both called đậu Hà Lan, “Netherlands beans”), contributing vibrant color, mild sweetness, and subtle crispness.”  

Makes 4 servings 

• 10 ounces oyster mushrooms 

• 4 ounces snap peas or snow peas 

• 1/2 small red or yellow onion, cut into 1⁄2-inch-thick wedges 

• 3 tablespoons minced lemongrass 

• 1 large Fresno or jalapeño chile, quartered, seeded, and chopped 

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic 

• 1-1/2 teaspoons Madras-style curry powder, or a combination of 3/4 teaspoon ground coriander, 1/2 teaspoon garam masala, and 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric 

• Fine sea salt 

• 1⁄4 teaspoon granulated sugar 

• 1⁄8 teaspoon ground turmeric (optional, for extra-bright color) 

• 1 tablespoon fish sauce (store-bought or vegan version) 

• 2-1⁄2 tablespoons neutral oil (such as canola or peanut) 

Prep the mushrooms and peas:

Tear the mushrooms into large bite-size pieces no wider than 2 inches at their fan-like caps; they will lose nearly half of their volume during cooking. It’s fine to keep clusters of smaller mushrooms intact.

Using your fingernails, nip each pea at both ends, removing the hard tips and any tough stringy parts that come off. Line them up near the stove with the mushrooms and seasonings—from the onion down to the fish sauce— because cooking goes quickly.

Stir-fry and serve:

Set a 14-inch wok or 12-inch nonstick or carbon-steel skillet over medium heat and add the neutral oil. When the oil ripples, add the onion and lemongrass, stir, and fry for about 2 minutes, to soften the onion and start browning the lemongrass.

Add the chile, garlic, curry powder, 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, sugar, and turmeric (if using). Stir for 30 seconds, until aromatic, and then add the mushrooms. Fold in and stir the mushrooms to coat well.

When all the pieces are splotched gold, turn the heat to high and continue stir-frying for about 2 minutes more, until tender-firm. Add the peas, swiftly working to combine them.

After 1 minute, when the peas are hot and glistening, splash in the fish sauce. Cook for about 30 seconds to season, hydrate, and soften everything. Remove from the heat and taste. If needed, add 1 pinch of salt. Transfer to a serving plate and bring to the table to eat. 

 

TOFU-MUSHROOM CURRY
Cà Ri Đậu Hũ và Nấm 

 

“I made this so-so Viet vegetable curry for years, relying on fish sauce as a cheat but the flavor was off. Finally, I developed this stellar vegan version. It employs the Indian method of browning the fried onion to craft a flavorful base. Garlic and ginger lend zip; tomato, fresh mushrooms, and MSG add savory notes. Tofu soaks up all the flavors.”  

Makes 4 servings 

• 1 (14- or 16-ounce) package extra-firm tofu, water poured off 

• Fine sea salt 

• 3 tablespoons neutral oil (such as canola or peanut) 

• 2⁄3 cup chopped yellow onion 

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped peeled ginger 

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic 

• 3 tablespoons minced lemongrass 

• Scant 2 teaspoons Madras-style curry powder, or a combination of 1 teaspoon ground coriander, scant 3⁄4 teaspoon garam masala, and 1⁄4 teaspoon ground turmeric 

• 1⁄4 teaspoon MSG, or 1⁄2 teaspoon Asian mushroom seasoning or Marmite (optional) 

• 1⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or 1⁄4 teaspoon red pepper flakes 

• 6 ounces tomato, grated on the largest hole of a box grater (keep juices and seeds) 

• 10 ounces medium cremini or white mushrooms, halved through the stems 

• 1-1⁄3 cups full-fat unsweetened coconut milk (whisk before measuring) 

• 1⁄4 cup water, plus more as needed 

• 1⁄4 cup coarsely chopped cilantro sprigs or dill fronds 

Pan-fry the tofu: 

Cut the tofu into 1-inch cubes. Season with a mounded 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, transfer to a dish towel, and let drain for 10 to 15 minutes. 

Set a 12-inch nonstick or carbon-steel skillet over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon of the neutral oil. Meanwhile, pat the moisture from the tofu (I use a dry area of the dish towel). When the oil ripples, add the tofu and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, turning frequently to brown on two or three sides. Set aside to cool. 

Cook the aromatics and simmer the curry: 

Set a 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons neutral oil. When the oil barely ripples, add the onion and a sprinkling of salt and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until richly browned.  

Turn the heat to medium, then add the ginger, garlic, lemongrass, curry powder, MSG (if using), and cayenne. Stir for about 30 seconds, until fragrant. Add the tomato, mushrooms, and 1⁄2 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often. The mixture will condense to half its original volume; splash in water if things stick. 

Add 1 cup of the coconut milk, re-cover, and lower the heat to a simmer for 5 minutes. Add the pan-fried tofu and water to barely cover the solids. Simmer gently, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and gently stir in the remaining 1⁄3 cup coconut milk; let the curry rest for 10 minutes, uncovered. 

Tweak, garnish, and serve: 

Taste the curry and season with additional salt, if needed; splash in water if the flavors are too strong. Stir in 3 tablespoons of the cilantro, transfer to a serving bowl, and crown with the remaining 1 tablespoon cilantro. Serve immediately.  

 

SPICE-CITRUS MARBLE CAKE
Bánh Marble Cake 

“Reflecting my life experiences and identity, this American marble cake gets the Viet treatment via a bold blending of warm, sweet spices typically found in pho and bò kho beef stew; because of that, I gave the recipe a Vietglish name. This cross-cultural bake is tasty, fragrant, and fun to make. I add lime zest because the citrus is a constant in the Viet kitchen.” 

Makes 8 servings 

• 1 tablespoon packed finely grated lime zest 

• 2 teaspoons granulated sugar, plus 1 cup 

• 3⁄4 to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon  

• 3⁄4 teaspoon ground ginger, or 1⁄2 teaspoon ground star anise, plus more as needed 

• 1⁄4 teaspoon ground cloves, cardamom, or a 50/50 combo, plus more as needed 

• 1⁄4 teaspoon recently ground black pepper (optional) 

• Brimming 1 teaspoon instant espresso or unsweetened cocoa powder 

• 1-1⁄3 cups all-purpose flour (bleached or unbleached) 

• 1-1⁄2 teaspoon baking powder 

• 1⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt 

• 2⁄3 cup whole milk or oat milk, at room temperature 

• 1⁄2 cup neutral oil (such as canola or peanut) 

• 2 large eggs, at room temperature 

• 1-1⁄2 tablespoons molasses 

Make the lime-zesty sugar and customize spices: 

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Lightly oil the bottom and sides of a 9-inch round or 8-inch square baking pan (with at least 2-inch-high sides) and line the bottom with parchment paper. 

In a small bowl, using the back of a spoon, mash together the lime zest with 1 teaspoon of the sugar to yield a fragrant green mixture. Set aside. 

In another bowl, mix 1 teaspoon sugar, 3⁄4 teaspoon of the cinnamon, ginger, cloves, and pepper (if using). Taste and adjust with the remaining cinnamon 1⁄8 teaspoon at a time, or add pinches of the other spices to create a pleasantly spicy-sweet, slightly zingy blend. Add the instant espresso for a bittersweet, earthy edge. Jot down your formula for future cakes. 

Make the batters and marble them:  

In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt and mix with a fork for about 15 seconds to incorporate.

In a large bowl, combine the remaining 1 cup sugar, milk, neutral oil, and eggs and use a whisk to beat until smooth and creamy yellow. In three additions, gently whisk in the flour mixture, making sure the batter is just smooth after each addition. 

Pour a generous 1-1⁄4 cups of the batter into a liquid measuring cup and stir in the lime-zesty sugar. Add the molasses and spice blend to the remaining batter in the bowl and whisk gently to combine well. 

Add half of the lime batter in blobs to the prepared pan and then add half of the spice batter to fill in gaps and overlap here and there. Drag a skewer or the back of a knife through the batters about five times to create delicate swirls. 

Repeat with the remaining batters. To expel large air bubbles, hold the pan 2 to 3 inches above your work surface and drop it. 

Bake and cool:  

Bake the cake for 28 to 40 minutes (the smaller 8-inch pan takes longer), until the top feels dry and a toothpick or skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean. Let cool on a wire rack for 45 minutes. 

Unmold and serve:  

Run a knife around the sides of the cake. Put a cooling rack over the pan and invert, then remove the pan and paper. Place a serving plate over the cake and invert again so it is right-side up. Cut the cake into wedges or squares and serve slightly warm or at room temperature. 

• Plant-Forward
,
• Recipe