Getting into the Cooperative Spirit with Tollgate Farms and Hudson Valley Fresh Dairy
Calves and cows at Tollgate Farm.
Set amidst the rolling hills of the Hudson Valley, Tollgate Farm spans 140 picturesque acres in Ancramdale, New York, near the border of Massachusetts and Connecticut. On a crisp morning recently, I took the 45-minute drive from Vassar College to the farm to meet the Davenport family, who have been raising cows here since 1986, along with Courtney Roberts, the sales and marketing manager for Hudson Valley Fresh Dairy.
As one of eight member farms of Hudson Valley Fresh Dairy cooperative, a Farm to Fork partner at Vassar, Tollgate exemplifies a commitment to high-quality milk and sustainable agriculture. Led by fourth-generation farmer Jim Davenport and his wife Karen, the farm has earned national recognition for its dedication to excellence.
Treating the Herd Like a Family
In the barn at Tollgate Farm, the walls are adorned with milk quality awards—a testament to the dedication and care that define the Davenports’ work. Despite these accolades, their primary focus remains on their herd’s well-being. They grow enough grass for hay and corn for silage to provide a consistent, nutritious diet for their 64 milking cows. The cows are milked in the original milking barn, where each animal, identified by the “Tollgate Vu” prefix, has her own fitted stall, tailored to her size.
The Davenports approach caring for their cows with the same dedication one might give to raising a family, emphasizing the importance of proper nutrition and attentive care, and recognizing that these efforts allow the cows to thrive and contribute positively to the farm.
As we climbed into a gator and drove up the hill, the breathtaking views of Tollgate Farm and the Hudson Valley unfolded around us. During the ride, Karen and Courtney shared the challenges that small-scale dairy farms across the country have faced for years. The costs of production — feeding and caring for cows, maintaining equipment, and paying workers — often outweigh the prices farmers are paid for their milk. Large industrial farms, with their ability to produce milk on a massive scale, continue to drive prices down, making it increasingly difficult for small, family-owned farms to compete. As a result, many are forced to sell their land or leave dairy farming behind altogether.
The Power of Cooperatives
Karen Davenport from Tollgate and Courtney Roberts from Hudson Valley Fresh Dairy feed the Tollgate cows.
A cooperative like Hudson Valley Fresh offers a lifeline. It ensures that farmers like the Davenports receive a premium price for their high-quality milk. By prioritizing fair compensation, the co-op allows farms to cover their costs, invest in sustainable practices, and retain the independence and traditions that are often lost in larger operations. This model not only keeps farms like Tollgate viable but also preserves the agricultural landscape and rural communities that depend on them.
This cooperative spirit was the vision of Sam Simon, a physician and fourth-generation farmer who founded Hudson Valley Fresh Dairy in 2004. At the time, even with a quality premium, the price of milk wasn’t enough to sustain his farm. It took about three years for the community to embrace the idea of paying fair prices for locally produced milk, but it eventually caught on.
Hudson Valley Fresh demonstrates how local processing can play a key role in maintaining milk quality and freshness. Their milk is processed in Kingston, NY, and is never mixed with milk from other farms, allowing for full traceability from cow to table. Once processed, their milk reaches Vassar’s campus within just three days. Additionally, Hudson Valley Fresh uses a minimal pasteurization process, heating milk to 166°F for 20 seconds, rather than the ultra-pasteurization process commonly used for extended shelf life. This process strikes a balance by preserving the milk’s natural enzymes and proteins while ensuring safety.
Prior to my visit to Tollgate Farm, Courtney Roberts joined me at Vassar to share chocolate milk samples with students. As we handed out the rich, creamy samples, Courtney spoke passionately about the story and vision of Hudson Valley Fresh, highlighting the cooperative’s dedication to quality, sustainability, and supporting local farmers. Many students were already aware of the milk’s local roots and high standards, but Courtney’s enthusiasm helped deepen their connection to the farmers behind the product.
As Vassar students experienced, the partnership between Hudson Valley Fresh and farms like Tollgate demonstrates how local dairy farming, combined with farmers collaborating to share resources can support farm livelihoods while fostering a deeper connection between the campus and the surrounding agricultural community.