Von Diaz Celebrates Island Cooking with Resilient Recipes

We are thrilled for the chance to highlight a collection of recipes published by Von Diaz from two of her recent cookbooks, Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking, and as a contributor to Tasty Pride All the recipes reflect the resilient nature of island communities, from Von’s birthplace of Puerto Rico to Jamaica, Trinidad, and Indonesia. “Through Islas, I discovered that cuisines tell rich stories and preserve our histories, but they also provide a road map for survival,” says Von, reflecting about writing her most recent book. Dive into the recipes below!

 

PUERTO RICAN-STYLE PIMENTO CHEESE 

“This pimento cheese recipe is my homage to queer spaces and a literal fusion of my Southern home and my Boricua roots.” — Von Diaz 

  • 8 ounces extra-sharp yellow cheddar cheese, grated   
  • 8 ounces sharp white cheddar cheese, grated  
  • 1/2 cup diced roasted red pepper 
  • 1/2 cup mayonnaise 
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons sazón seasoning, homemade (recipe follows) or store-bought 
  • Chopped fresh cilantro (optional)  
  • Crackers or celery sticks 

For the sazón seasoning  

  • 1 tablespoon garlic powder‍  
  • 1 tablespoon onion powder‍  
  • 1 tablespoon ground cumin‍  
  • 1 tablespoon ground turmeric‍  
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper‍  
  • 2 tablespoons kosher salt‍  
  • 2 tablespoons ground achiote or sweet paprika 

In a large bowl, add the cheeses, pepper, mayonnaise, and sazón seasoning. Using a rubber spatula, stir everything together, folding from the outside in and mashing the cheese a bit to smooth. The dip should be homogenous in color, with flecks of pepper. 

Scoop the dip into an airtight container and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Garnish with cilantro, and serve with crackers or celery. 

To make the sazón seasoning yourself, combine the garlic powder, onion powder, cumin, turmeric, pepper, salt, and achiote in an airtight container. Cover and shake well to incorporate. The spice mixture will keep indefinitely in an airtight container at room temperature. 

 

CALLALOO (COCONUT-BRAISED GREENS FROM JAMAICA)

“Callaloo is a native West African dish made its way to the Caribbean during the Transatlantic slave trade. Depending on where you travel in the Caribbean, callaloo may refer to the green leafy vegetable—typically the heart-shaped leaves of the taro plant—or the actual, finished dish. In this recipe, from Islas collaborator Brigid Washington, greens are combined with okra, aromatics, spices, and coconut milk, then lightly cooked and puréed into a creamy, hearty vegetarian side dish.” – Von Diaz 

 Makes 6-8 servings
 

  • 8 large okra pods, stemmed and cut into 1-inch rounds 
  • 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped 
  • 4 green onions, white and green parts, finely chopped 
  • 8 cups baby spinach, roughly chopped 
  • 2 cups canned full-fat coconut milk, well shaken and stirred, plus more if serving as a soup 
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt 
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 
  • 1/2 teaspoon allspice berries, crushed 
  • 3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped 
  • 2 fresh thyme sprigs, leaves removed 
  • 3 whole cloves, crushed 
  • 1 scotch bonnet or orange habanero pepper 
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 
  • Steamed white rice, for serving 

In a large stockpot over medium-high heat, bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Add the okra, onion, green onions, spinach, coconut milk, salt, pepper,­ allspice, garlic, thyme, and cloves. Stir to combine and cover the pot. Cook for 7 to 10 minutes, until the spinach is wilted. 

Add the chile pepper, cover the pot, and lower the heat to medium-low. Simmer for 20 minutes. Remove and discard the pepper. Stir in the butter. Using an immersion blender, purée the mixture until smooth. (If you don’t have an immersion blender, use a regular blender, working in batches.)

Serve hot over steamed white rice. Or serve as an alternative to spinach dip. To serve as a soup, add 2 to 3 cups of warmed coconut milk or ­ boiling water after the callaloo has been puréed, or to the desired consistency (adjust the salt and pepper as needed). 

 

STEWED CURRY EGGPLANT  

“Islas contributor Brigid Washington grew up eating this [Trinidadian] stewed eggplant. The recipe developed from her mother’s preparation, and it’s one she continues to prepare for her family today. It’s quick, simple, and nourishing, and a vegan side dish that can be enjoyed on its own with white rice or paired with Callaloo (recipe above) and Cucumber Chow (recipe below) for a hearty vegetarian meal.” – Von Diaz 

Makes 4 servings
 

  • 3 tablespoon vegetable oil 
  • 2 teaspoon Chief or Madras curry powder 
  • 1 medium globe eggplant (about 14 oz), peeled and cubed 
  • 7 garlic cloves, finely chopped 
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed 
  • 1/4 teaspoon Tabasco or other hot sauce, plus more as needed 
  • Steamed brown or white rice, for serving 

In a large skillet over medium, heat the oil for about 30 seconds, then add the curry powder and stir to combine. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the eggplant, stirring to coat in the oil. Add 1/4 cup of water, stir again, and cover the pan. Cook until the eggplant is tender but not falling apart, 7 to 9 minutes. 

Uncover the pan and pour in another 1/4 cup of water. Stir, cover, and cook for 7 minutes, or until the eggplant is semi-translucent. Mash the eggplant with a fork (it should be soft enough to be mashed easily). Mix in the garlic, salt, and Tabasco and cook, uncovered, until the garlic mellows and the flavors have come together, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Taste and season with more salt and hot sauce as needed. Serve with rice. 

  

CUCUMBER CHOW 

“A recipe to add to your weekly rotation, cucumber chow comes together in seconds, and is so easy that you can make just enough for the meal you’re about to have.” – Von Diaz 

  • 2 large cucumbers, peeled and chopped 
  • 3 medium garlic cloves, minced 
  • 1/3 cup finely chopped fresh culantro leaves 
  • 1 small scotch bonnet pepper, seeded and chopped 
  • Juice of 1 lime 
  • 2 tablespoons kosher salt

In a medium bowl with a lid, combine the cucumbers, garlic, culantro, pepper, lime juice, and salt. Cover and chill for at least 15 minutes, then serve. Cucumber chow will keep for up to 2 days in the refrigerator.  

 

GARLIC TEMPEH
“Today, tempeh is commonly found in grocery stores. But many don’t realize that it’s among the oldest soy-based foods on the planet. Originating in Indonesia one thousand years ago, it’s produced by washing, pressing, and fermenting soybeans. This dish, inspired by a recipe from James Oseland’s Cradle of Flavor, is an incredibly simple, quick, high-protein snack, with a mild flavor and satisfying texture that’s perfect with Indonesian dipping sauces such as kecap manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce), Sambal Oelek, and Coconut Peanut Sauce. It keeps for at least a week in the refrigerator and can be enjoyed cold or reheated in a toaster oven.” – Von Diaz 

Makes 4 servings 

  • 6 large garlic cloves, minced 
  • 1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger 
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce 
  • 1 tablespoon kecap manis or hoisin sauce 
  • 2 teaspoon kosher salt 
  • 1-1/2 cups hot water 
  • One 8 oz package plain tempeh, cut into 8 pieces 
  • Vegetable oil, for frying 

In a deep-lidded container just wide enough to fit the tempeh, combine the garlic, ginger, soy sauce, kecap manis, and salt. Stir in the hot water. Transfer the tempeh to the container and shake gently to toss in the marinade. Let sit at room temperature for 20 minutes. 

Meanwhile, pour enough oil into a deep frying pan to reach 1/2 in. Heat over medium-high, adding a small piece of dry tempeh or ginger to test the temperature (it should rise to the top when ready). 

Drain the tempeh and pat it dry with a paper towel. Line a baking sheet or large plate with paper towels. 

Carefully add the tempeh to the oil piece by piece, using a splatter guard as needed and being careful not to crowd the pan. Fry the tempeh in batches for 2 to 3 minutes total, turning several times, until the tempeh is golden brown but not dark. 

Carefully remove the tempeh from the oil with tongs and let drain on the paper towels. The tempeh can be eaten hot or at room temperature. 

Excerpted from Islas: A Celebration of Tropical Cooking by Von Diaz, © 2024. Published by Chronicle Books. Photographs © Lauren Vied Allen